Middle Settlement Lake, Big Otter Pond, East Pond Loop; Ha-De-Ron-Dah Wilderness backpacking

Where: Ha-De-Ron-Da Wilderness. Tower Road, Thendara

Length: The full loop covers approximately 20 miles. The route is best done as a backpacking trip.

Difficulty: As described in the video, the first half of the route is easy to moderate, much of it following the Big Otter Lake horse trail. Leaving the horse trail near Big Otter Lake, the second half of the loop to East Pond and then back to the starting point, is rough with lots of blowdown and several stream/beaver swamp crossings. It might be possible to get through with dry feet at times of low water. But, otherwise, expect to wade the South Inlet to Big Otter Lake and one or more wet areas encountered along the way. The second half of the route is moderate to difficult.

Access: From Route 28 in Old Forge, proceed south to the railroad overpass in Thendara. Immediately after the overpass, turn right onto Tower Road (note that the road sign gives a different name). Follow the gravel road for .5 miles and park near the gate. The trail starts 100 yards past the gate.

I've recently started creating videos documenting off-the-beaten track Adirondack hikes. You can view a video describing this route here. Please subscribe and like the video if you find it useful.

Bridge Brook Pond: An Easy Walk in the Horseshoe Lake Wild Forest

Where: Black Bridge Pond, from Rte. 421 in the Horseshoe Lake Wild Forest

Length: 4 miles (round trip).

Difficulty: Easy to Moderate. Mostly flat, well-marked trail. Very suitable for skiing or snowshoeing. 

Access: From Rte. 30, seven miles south of Tupper Lake, turn onto NY Rte. 421 towards Horseshoe Lake (and Lows Lake). After 3.5 miles you reach the parking area on the right. The parking area may not be plowed in winter, but, this is a very lightly used road and locals simply find a spot where they can park against the snow bank. 

This is a new trail or, perhaps just newly marked. New signs at the parking area and trailhead went up sometime in the fall of 2019.

There are two ponds to visit on this route. Black Pond is reached after an easy one mile walk. The much larger Bridge Brook Pond is a mile further on. As of January 2020, a significant --multi-generational-- beaver damn raises the water level in Black Pond, which is probably pretty swampy if the dam is out. Bridge Brook Pond, however, covers 120 acres and the DEC website says that is a noted Brook Trout fishery.

The mostly flat, four mile, round trip to these two ponds brings them within reach of families and anyone looking for an easy half day outing. 

Black Pond looking toward the northeast. The trail to Bridge Brook Pond passes around the end of the pond seen in the distance.

The far shore of Black Pond is sure to be infrequently visited. A worthy place to explore for adventurous hikers willing to take on a bit of bushwhacking.

Only a portion of Bridge Brook Pond is visible from the point where the trail end. Like most Adirondack Ponds, exploring or fishing Bridge Brook Pond cries out for a canoe.

The shoreline of Bridge Brook Pond is rugged, and, on a grey January day, even a bit foreboding. 

Peaked Mountain: A Day to Remember

Where: Peaked Mountain, From 13th Lake, Siamese Ponds Wilderness

Length: 7.5 miles (round trip).

Difficulty: Moderate to Difficult - Steep and exposed sections near the top are difficult when the trail is icy. 

Access: From Route 28, in North River, follow the Thirteenth Lake Road for 3.3 miles to Beach Road. Follow Beach Road for .6 miles to the Thirteenth Lake parking area. NOTE: The Halloween 2019 storm washed out a bridge on the Thirteenth Lake Road, a half mile short of Beach Road. As of Dec. 1st, the road remains closed. It's possible to park near the road closure, cross the stream on foot, walk to Beach Road, and the Thirteenth Lake parking area. This adds a mile to the route (each way). It's also possible to detour around the washout and come back to Beach Road from the other direction. Consult a map of the area for this alternate route.


My brother and I were looking for a place to hike near Indian Lake and I suggested Peaked Mountain. I had climbed Peaked Mountain once before, but that was more than 25 years ago and the details were long forgotten. Which was lucky, because the final stretch is steep and exposed, and we might have selected something easier if I had remembered. And what a shame that would have been. It turned out to be one of the most spectacular days I've enjoyed in a lifetime of Adirondack hiking.

Trees on north and west facing slopes were coated with rime ice above 2500 feet.

The trail to Peaked Mountain offers attractive scenery right from the start. The first mile follows the west shore of Thirteenth Lake with interesting rock formations and nice views of the lake. And this section passes several small stands of Oak trees (White Oak, I think). In general, Oaks are rare in the central Adirondacks, but, the boulder-strewn slopes along the lake create a micro-climate by reflecting the sun and warming the sandy soil. Oaks thrive in this type of habitat to the east and south and, by some chance, having arrived here, they have survived.

After about a mile the trail turns to the northwest, passing up the valley cut by Peaked Mountain Brook. The trail crosses the brook at least a half dozen times as you make your way up the valley towards Peaked Mountain Pond. We found the water to be running high at the first crossings and elected to bushwhack upstream into a large beaver meadow. There was an easy crossing there, but this detour was slow and tedious. On the way back out, with less concern about keeping our feet dry, and more concern about being late for dinner, we rock-hopped the crossing and it was not so bad.

The rugged profile of Bullhead Mountain. Peaked Mountain lies just north of Bullhead Mountain in the heart of the Siamese Ponds Wilderness.

At just under 3000 feet, Peaked Mountain is not big, but, the upper sections of the trail are very steep. With ice coating the trail above 2500 feet, micro-spikes were essential.

If you have been out hiking this fall (2019) you may have noticed the heavy Beech mast. Beech trees (and other many species) produce seeds every two to six years. This pulse of seeds is intended to overwhelm the many critters that eat Beech nuts, so that at a few nuts make it through to propagate the species. We've seen the ground covered with Beech Nuts over a wide area this fall: near Long Lake, south of Blue Mountain Lake, and now along the trail to Peaked Mountain. The Beech mast this year appears to be extensive and heavy. This will probably lead to an increase in rodent populations next summer with the potential for an increase in the tick population as well. It's all one big interconnected system. 

The route crosses of Peaked Mountain Pond Brook several times. The upper crossings are easily made by rock-hopping (as seen above), but, at the first crossing the stream is wider and deeper. This would not typically be a problem, but the water was high and the rocks were covered with a sheen of ice. Even my brother, who against all good sense refuses to carry a hiking pole, grabbed a stick to aid getting across.

From Peaked Mountain, looking back down the valley. Thirteenth Lake in the distance.

Peaked Mountain seen from below. The rocky, southeast facing slope, seen here was nearly free of snow and ice. However, the trail goes up the far side, which was coated with thick ice.

Looking down on Peaked Mountain Pond, Bullhead Mountain in the background. From the pond, the route climbs 700 vertical feet in roughly half a mile. 

Peaked Mountain Pond.

Rime ice coating the trees on a nearby ridge.

Stephens Pond

Where: Stephens Pond, on the Northville-Lake Placid Trail, Blue Ridge Wilderness

Length: 7.2 mile (round trip).

Difficulty: Moderate - There are no significant climbs on this 3.6 mile trail. The trail is wet in places. The route passes through varied forests for three miles before it reaches an intersection with the Cascade Pond trail (which can be used to reach Blue Mountain Lake Village). At the junction, turn left (south), it is then .6 miles to the lean-to on Stephens Pond. 

Access: From Blue Mountain Lake, drive east on Route 30 for 2.5 miles to the Northville Lake Placid Trail Parking Area. Head south from the road on the Northville Lake Placid Trail, this short section is marked for snowmobiles. In a quarter mile the trail enters the Lake Durant State Campground. You can also park in the campground, but, in the summer a day fee is required. Signs direct you to the continuing NPT which leaves the campground near site 3. 

From near the Stephens Pond lean-to, looking north towards Blue Mountain. This photo is from late November 2019.

McRorie Lake and Mud Pond Mountain; Revisited

Where: McRorie Lake and Mud Pond Mountain; Cedarlands Conservation Easement, near Long Lake. 

Length: Five mile (round trip) to climb Mud Pond Mountain. Adding a visit to the McRorie Lake lean-to makes it a 7 mile round trip.

Difficulty: Moderate - The first 2.2 miles is easy walking along an old woods road. This gets you to the point where a side trail up Mud Pond Mountain is marked with a sign which says 'OA Mountain'. It is a very steep half mile from there to the view point. An additional 8/10th's of a mile past the Mud Pond Mountain trail brings you to a nicely sited lean-to on McRorie Lake. 

Access: From Long Lake, drive toward Tupper Lake on route 30. Approximately a half mile from the Long Lake Bridge, turn right on Kickerville Road. Follow the Kickerville Road to where the pavement ends. Signs indicate that the continuing gravel road is private, but that is not correct. After .8 miles on the gravel road a DEC sign points to a parking area on the left. From the parking area, return to the road and walk an additional .4 miles. This brings you to an intersection of three roads, all of which are gated. Take the hard left. Signs indicate that this is the way to Mud Pond. 

The Cedarlands Conservation Easement tract is just a few minutes drive from Long Lake, but, the access requires a bit of local knowledge. The area offers outstanding hiking and canoeing, and only its' obscure location keeps it from being a very popular destination. I visited the area a year ago, and my post from that outing is found here. I won't go through all the details again, because this recent hike (November 2019) covered essentially the same ground.

The main 'trail' in the Cedarlands tract follows a sturdy (closed) gravel road. This road was used for logging until just a few years ago, and it's fascinating to see how quickly a road deteriorates once maintenance stops. Beaver have completely blocked the road about 2.5 miles in. Hikers, however, can easily bypass the blockage by passing below the dam.  

This time around, however, we were able to enjoy the impressive view from Mud Pond Mountain (it was completely socked in last time I was there). And, it was well worth going back, this modestly named mountain offers expansive views to the east and south. The video and pictures illustrate the point.

YouTube video from the hike.

Looking over McRorie Lake towards Kempshall Mountain. 

The view from Mud Pond Mountain. The prominent peak left of center is Kempshall on the east side of Long Lake. McRorie lake is in the foreground. Glimpses of Long Lake are seen in the middle distance with Fishing Brook Mountain in the distance.

Looking southeast, towards the Fishing Brook Range. The body of water in the center of the photo is Long Lake. Mud Pond is in the foreground right. 

One of a series of snow squalls obscured the view of nearby Grampus Lake Mountain.

By the time we hiked back out, the skies had cleared. This is the stream that flows out of McRorie Lake, into Mud Pond, and eventually into Big Brook and Long Lake. 

Raquette River Canoe Carry (near Long Lake)

Where: Raquette River Canoe Carry: From the North Point Road, near Long Lake

Length: 2 miles (round trip)

Difficulty: Easy - Family Friendly. This is a flat walk along the river. Starting at the lean-tos where the river widens into Long Lake, the path heads southwest towards Buttermilk Falls. There are only a few trail markers, but the path is obvious. There are a few wet sections as you approach Buttermilk Falls, but it is generally easy going the entire way.

Access: From Long Lake, head south on Route 30 toward Blue Mountain Lake. Starting at the junction of Routes 30 and 28N (in front of Hoss's Country Corner store), it's three miles to the North Point Road. The parking area is on the North Point Road, just over a mile from that intersection. A small "Canoe Carry" sign, on the right, marks the spot. From the parking area, go down the hill to the lean-to on the left. In front of the lean-to, head towards the river, the path begins from the clearing below the lean-to.

The Raquette River Canoe Carry trail (from the North Point Road, near Long Lake) is not the kind of hiking route that I have typically written about. The round trip covers just two miles, and part of the route is not a formally marked trail. This walk follows two canoe carry trails, connected by an unmarked path, and much of the trail is within earshot of the North Point Road. Even so, this short hike is appealing for two reasons: 1) It's a family friendly hike, and the starting point is just a 10 minute drive from the junction of Routes 30 and 28N in Long Lake, and 2) it's a delightful walk along the river, with lots to see and Buttermilk Falls as the destination. This is nice walk at any time, and, late in the day, as the sun is setting, it is spectacular.

I've created a video to show you what I mean. You can view it on YouTube.

You can walk this route in either direction, starting at Buttermilk falls or at the canoe carry parking area (as described). Buttermilk Falls makes a nice destination so I think it's nice to walk up river. Either way, the round trip is bout two miles. I'll let the photos tell the rest of the story. The photographs were taken on several different visits, at different times of day.

Early morning sun near the lean-to. 

Buttermilk Falls

Along the river. The water was high following heavy rains in the week before.

Along the River, late in the day.

Buttermilk Falls can be heard long before it comes into view. It is seen here looking up river from a few hundred yards away.

Along the way

The river on a foggy morning

One of the take out points for paddlers

The foam is the result of the high concentration of tannins in the water.

A section of the path on a foggy morning. The path is through a mature forest, some of which appears to have never been logged. 

Raquette Falls and Calkins Brook

Where: Raquette Falls

Length: 10 miles (round trip)

Difficulty: Moderate. Less difficult than the length implies because the route follows a horse trail with a relatively smooth surface. A few ups and downs along the way will test your legs on the way out. A side trip to Calkins Brook extends this route, but it is separate.

Access: The parking area is on the Coreys Road. This intersection is from Route 3, three miles north of where Routes 30 and 3 split, north of Tupper Lake. Follow the Coreys road for three miles to the large parking area on the right (south side). This is the parking for the Raquette Falls Horse Trail. 

Two Videos on YouTube:
Water and Light
The Sound of the River

There is no real connection between the hikes to Raquette Falls and Calkins Brook, except that they start at the same trail-head. And, it is probably safe to say that not many people visit both in a single outing, the combined route covers over 19 miles. However, most of that is on old truck trails that make for fast walking, and, a perfect October day in the Adirondacks can lead one to get carried away.

Raquette Falls is very familiar to canoeists paddling the popular route from Long Lake to the Saranac Lakes. The river narrows and passes over a series of rapids and falls, dropping about 60 feet in a mile. Canoeists carry around this section along a well-worn carry trail.

The Raquette River near Lower Raquette Falls

But, the hiking trail to the falls is little used, probably because it is a nine mile round trip. And that does not include walking along the river to see the cascades. If you go, expect to do around ten miles in total. That's a long walk, but this hike is made easier by the easy walking along the old truck-trail  (now designated as a horse trail) and by the scenery you pass along the way. The river, or the flood plain along the river, are in sight for most of the second half of the route. On a nice fall day this makes for a spectacularly colorful landscape to pass through.

The river below the falls.

The gorge below the lower falls.

Along Palmer Brook, near where it crosses the Raquette Falls Trail.

Along the trail, the flood plain of the Raquette River is broad resulting in large, open, meadows. Seen here in late afternoon light.

The Ranger cabin at Raquette Falls. Canoeists on the Raquette river fill the lean-tos and camping areas near the falls, leading DEC to maintain the Interior Outpost nearby. This is one of the last of the Interior Outposts still in use. Most were removed when the wilderness designation came into use.

Calkins Brook
The destination for a day-hike to Calkins Brook is the camping area sited along the brook, seven miles south of the Coreys Road trail-head. This spot is about five mils north of Shattuck Clearing, in a remote area of the High Peak Wilderness. The brook is pretty, but the main appeal of this route is that it leads into a remote and raw wilderness. This spot is far away from the peak bagging hordes seen elsewhere in the High Peaks. The trail continues past the lean-tos to Shattuck Clearing, and the Northville-Lake Placid Trail, making it a good entry point for backpacking trips into a remote area.

Like the trail to Raquette Falls, the route to Calkins Brook follows a route designated as a horse trail. And, with the exception of a very wet, one-mile stretch over the well-named "Mud Mountain", it is smooth and easy walking.  The Calkins Brook trail joins a a second horse trail one mile north of the lean-tos. This route comes down from the main Seward Range parking area, also located on the Coreys Road and this is probably the more popular approach. But, popular is relative, and there was little evidence of usage seen in either the trails or the camping area.

The bridge over Calkins Brook has partially collapsed into the stream. This heavy-duty bridge was probably designed to carry truck traffic when this old road was a "truck-trail". In more recent years it would have provided passage for horses. However, the downed bridge is clearly slated for repair, as evidenced by the large pile of new lumber sitting nearby.

Fallen trees partially block the crossing but, with care, hikers can still cross.  

Arriving at Calkins Brook without a fishing pool is just poor planning. I don't know if the brook has good fishing, but it looks like it should.

The crystal clear waters of Calkins Brook.

The lean-tos at Calkins Brook are in very good shape. You can tell that this location sees very little use. Two Paper Birch trees, situated between the lean-tos, have large flaps of lose bark hanging off. You don't see that at heavily used sites.

Much or the route passes through mature second growth forests, but even the younger stands are pretty on a sunny October day.

Along Palmer Brook, passed along the way.

Hitchens Pond Overlook

Where: Hitchens Pond Overlook

Length: 7 miles (out and back)

Difficulty: Moderate. Less difficult than the length might imply because five miles of the total is along a nearly level gravel road.

Access: From Route 30, five miles south of Tupper Lake, Take Route 421 past Horseshoe Lake. Cross the railroad tracks and continue for two miles to gated gravel road on the left. There is plenty of parking along the road. Follow the road for 2.4 miles to Lows Upper Dam. Then, take the Overlook trail for 1.1 miles to the open rock of the overlook.

Hitchen's Pond Overlook is a true gem. It's a seven mile round trip, but five miles of that total is on a smooth, flat, gravel road and the climb up to the overlook is over a well built trail that climbs just a few hundred feet. This is a family friendly hike

Bog River, between the dams, in the foreground. Mount Morris, (the Big Tupper Ski Area is on the other side), near Tupper Lake, is the prominent peak left of center.

I had been to the overlook before, but, my wife and brother had the same reaction as they stepped out onto the large ledge, Wow!

Hitchens Pond. Blue Mountain in the distance and Owl's Head (west of Long Lake), left of center.

As you might expect, the view includes Hitchens Pond in the foreground with the Bog River stretching into the distance. The High Peaks are visible and Blue mountain rise above Owl's Head near Long Lake.

Along the trail into Lows Upper Dam.

In addition to the view, the road passes through an edge of the Hitchens Pond Bog. This is one of the largest bog complexes in the Adirondacks and the area contains all of the plants and nature you expect. On fall afternoon, the bog is a a worthy destination in its' own right.

Along the trail into Lows Upper Dam.

Southwest

Along the trail into Lows Upper Dam.